What's Worth Drinking

Today I want to talk about one of my favorite white wines, Picpoul Blanc. The grape has been a specialty of southern France for hundreds of years and is grown most notably in the Languedoc region under the Picpoul de Pinet designation (sourced from vineyards surrounding the village of Pinet). Picpoul can also be found in the Rhone Valley, usually in only minute quantities as a blending grape. The varietal offers bright, citrusy wines with lots of fresh, spritzy acidity. It’s the perfect wine for poolside sipping and an incredible match for your favorite seafood. Versatile, fresh, and something unique and different, there are a lot of things to love about picpoul, but possibly the best part is the price. You can usually find a great picpoul for less than $15, sometimes as low as $7.

Something else to love about the one that we’ll be covering today is that it comes from a Vigneron Independant producer (click here for a link to their website). The Vignerons Independants are a group of, literally, “independent winemakers” who have created a trade organization to promote and support small scale wine production. Members of the organization must grow their own grapes, produce their own wine, do their own bottling, and work to preserve the land and the heritage of the place where they grow their grapes. It’s easy to spot these wines if you know where to look. Members get the right to put the Vigneron Independant logo on their bottles, which may show up printed on the wine’s label or on the foil around the neck of the bottle. Watch for them the next time you are in the French wine section of your favorite wine store. There is also an equivalent group for Italian wine makers called Vignaioli Indipendenti, but more on that in another post.

Sip of the Day: Domaine des Lauriers 2011 Coteaux du Languedoc Picpoul de Pinet

The aroma is defined by fresh notes of yellow peach and lemon zest, delicate hints of chestnut, and a persistent mineral streak of crushed sea stone.

The palate is very fresh and bright with notes of peach, apples, lemon and lots of spritzy minerals tones. It’s refreshing and balanced with a mouthwatering finish that keeps you coming back for more.

If you like… Spanish Albarino, light Italian whites like Verdicchio, or are just looking for something instead of the same old same Pinot Grigio, this is a great value (4/5).

Pair this with… very fresh, simply prepared seafood, fresh vegetable dishes like pasta pomodoro or primavera, or garden salads.

91 points.

Last week I had the pleasure of dining at Princi Italia, a great little trattoria with excellent food in Dallas, Texas. I was searching the list for a wine to pair with the homemade gnocchi and Texas wild boar ragu I was about to order, when I found a Nero di Troia that I knew would be perfect.

I’ve always been a fan of Nero di Troia, also called Uva di Troia. An obscure grape native to Puglia, Italy, it thrives in hot climates and packs on rich, dark berry flavors and concentrated floral aromas. Nero di Troia has a rustic quality to it, with firm tannins and tart acidity that reminds me somewhat of Aglianico from Campania or Basilicata. It can be incredibly hard to find Nero di Troia in wine stores, but its obscurity means that when you do find it, it’s usually very reasonably priced. I’d recommend trying any one that you can get your hands on, and our sip of the day is a great place to start if you can locate a bottle.

Sip of the Day: Terra Maiorum 2007 Puglia “Quercus” Nero di Troia

Attractive aromas of violets, dried plums, blueberry, and acai berry show at first on the nose. Secondary notes of chocolate, chicory, toasted anise, vanilla and coconut also make an appearance, adding tons of complexity.

The palate is very smooth, full, and rich but also beautifully balanced and supple. Uplifting acidity and dusty firm tannins give it incredible structure, while hints of violets, dried plum, leather, and cacao powder add delicious layering.

If you like… eclectic Italian reds like Aglianico or Negroamaro, floral, balanced Syrahs, or are just looking for something unique and different, this is a great value (4/5).

Pair this with… wild game, rich beef dishes, hearty pastas, or roasts.

92 points.

Last Friday’s article covered three unique red wines made from some very under-the-radar grape varieties. Today I thought it would be fun to keep the same theme going and explore three more wines made with lesser known varieties. This time we’re taking on white wines, and we’re exploring Italy, Spain, and France to find them. Looking for a taste of something different? Try these on for size.

Wine #1: Carpineto 2011 Vernaccia di San Gimignano

Vernaccia di San Gimignano is a traditional white wine made with grapes grown in and around the town of San Gimignano in the hills of Tuscany. The grape is known for crisp minerality, complex flavor profiles of stone fruit and flowers, and is a perfect match for the extremely fresh, culinary minimalism of Tuscany.

This wine opens up with aromas of ripe white peach, blood orange, and Asian pear. Hints of melon, cucumber, and honey come through as well with a flinty mineral streak showing in the background.

This is a balanced, medium bodied wine with ripe fruit tones framed by notes of white pepper and crushed stone. White peach, gold apples, citrus tones, and a light floral edge give this wine its unique fresh and lively identity. It’s vibrant and bright with clean acidity and minerality.

If you like… other better known Italian whites like Pinot Grigio, Gavi, or Orvieto, aromatic Greek whites, or Argentine Torrontes, check this out for something different. It’s a great value (4/5).

Serve this with… fresh seafood, simply prepared fresh pasta dishes, lemon chicken, or vegetarian sautees.

91 points.

Wine #2: Bodegas Rafael Palacios 2011 “Sabrego” Valdeorras Godello

Godello is native to northern Spain and parts of Portugal. It is best known in the Bierzo and Valdeorras regions, where it produces rich, refreshing wines loaded with mineral flavors and aromas.

Notes of crushed sea stone, Asian pear, gold apple, and lemon pith show on the nose, striking an enticing balance between firm minerality and golden fruit tones.

The palate is rich and ripe with flavors of gold apples and Asian pears framed by a refreshing streak of crushed seashell and stone. Well composed, juicy, and mineral laced, this is a very enjoyable, true to varietal Godello.

If you like… crisp and refreshing whites with some body and depth, like northern Spanish whites, Viognier and other Rhone whites, or Pinot Bianco, this is a great value (4/5).

Pair this with… very fresh seafood and shellfish or vegetarian and light pasta dishes.

90 points.

Wine #3: La Forge Estate 2010 Languedoc Viognier

Of today’s three wines, Viognier is probably the best known and most commonly found in wine stores. Native to southern France’s Rhone Valley, Viognier is a great alternative to Chardonnay, offering smooth, velvety wines that are a great match for rich dishes. This one is a small production estate bottling coming from the neighboring Languedoc region.

Ripe gold apple, tart pineapple, and sliced citrus show at first on the nose, with floral aromas of Acacia and honeycomb combining with a firm chalky undertone.

Rich, silky, and velvety smooth on the palate this wine opens with creamed honey and hazelnuts framing beautifully ripe tones of apple, mango, and orange pith. It’s complex and layered with fresh acidity and a delicate minerality and just enough oak for body and smoothness.

If you like… oaked French chardonnay, smooth white Rhone blends, or other full bodied whites, this is a great value (4/5).

Serve this with… roasted pork or chicken, cream sauces, or rich, buttery seafood.

91 points.

So, what are your thoughts on Bobal? How about Mencia? When was the last time you had a Graciano?

If these names aren’t exactly familiar, that’s okay, they tend to fly pretty far under the radar. But these three grapes, all lesser known red varietals from Spain, each bring some very unique and interesting things to the table. So today, we’re going to dive into the unknown and cover one of each.

Wine #1: Mustiguillo 2008 Valencia Mestis

The Bobal grape is a traditional variety native to the Valencia region of Spain. Up until recently, it had fallen out of favor with winemakers and was facing virtual extinction. However, as of late the grape has experienced a bit of a resurgence as winemakers look to revive lesser known native varieties. One such winery is Mustiguillo, whose Mestis is composed of 50% Bobal with Merlot, Cabernet, Tempranillo, and Syrah comprising the remainder of the blend.

Black currant, blackberry, and hints of pine show initially on the nose, with notes of forest floor, tree bark and dried flowers appearing as well.

The palate is rich and lush with tight, waxy tannins and notes of red roses, blackberries, blackcurrant, and a woodsy edge coming through at first. Hints of coffee, cacao powder, vanilla, and black raspberry open up next and last into a lengthy finish.

If you like… rich, concentrated reds like Californian Syrahs or Spanish Tempranillos, this is a great value (4/5).

Pair this with… grilled or roasted chicken, beef, or vegetarian dishes, hearty stews, or game.

91 points.

Wine #2: Telmo Rodriguez 2009 Gaba do Xil Valdeorras Mencia

The Mencia grape, most commonly found coming from north western Spain’s Bierzo region, produces red wines in a variety of styles, ranging from light and easy to drink to rich, dark and concentrated. This bottling comes from the adjacent Valdeorras region and is 100% Mencia.

The aroma of this wine is incredibly complex. Kirsch, blackcurrants, cherry pits, and black pepper show at first on the nose. Something almost remeniscent of grappa comes through as well, with dried flower petals, potpourri, and struck flint showing in the background.

The palate is rich and deep with notes of cherries and currants, exotic wood, potpourri, and crushed stone. This is a firm and restrained wine with tight tannins and a minerally structure.

If you like… better known Spanish reds like Garnacha or Monastrell (Mourvedre), but are looking for something unique and different (that drinks almost something like a Cabernet Franc), this is a good value (3/5).

Pair this with… cured meat platters, Spanish cheeses, or spicy seafood dishes.

89 points.

Wine #3: Rio Madre 2011 Rioja Graciano

Graciano, most commonly grown in Rioja, is incredibly rare to find bottled varietally. It is typically used as a blending grape, adding color, concentration, and tannins to Rioja red blends. The one we’re covering today is 100% Graciano from its traditional homeland of Rioja.

Blackberry, black currant, and marzipan introduce the aroma with cinnamon raisin bread, hints of prune, dried herbs, and pipe tobacco showing in the background.

Rich, dark, and bold, this wine is intensely inky and concentrated. Violets and very dark chocolate show at first on the palate with black stone, dried flower petals, and prunes appearing toward the finish. This is a serious, deep and silky wine with an almost grilled, bitter edge that gives some real personality.

If you like… dark, inky wines like Syrah, Petite Sirah, and Petit Verdot this is a very impressive, excellent value (5/5).

Pair this with… rich, smoky meat dishes, grilled vegetables, or cured meats.

90 points.

With the return of Spring, it felt like the right time to bring What’s Worth Drinking back from its long winter slumber. Over the past few months I’ve had so much going on that I have hardly had time to do much wine tasting, let alone writing, but I’m going to try my best to get back to a fairly regular posting schedule.

So when I think of Springtime wines, I think of light, refreshing whites. Italian Pinot Bianco (also called Pinot Blanc in France or Weissburgunder in Germany) has been a recent favorite of mine, mostly because of its versatility. It can be easy, fresh, and delicate, like its better known sibling, Pinot Grigio, or it can have a surprising amount of substance and depth, depending on winemaking style and amount of bottle age. Generally speaking, in their youth Pinot Biancos are fruity and floral, often with a little bit of minerality going on. However, as they age they tend to take on a rounder mouthfeel and somewhat nutty aromas and flavors. Today we have two Pinot Biancos from two different vintages, one recent and one a couple of years older. Both come from the same region in northern Italy, Alto Adige, where the cool mountainous climate produces fresh, minerally wines with firm structure and polished acidity.

Wine #1: Tramin 2011 Alto Adige Pinot Bianco

Vibrant and inviting on the nose, this wine shows notes of pear, white peach, and tangerine at first, with hints of jasmine, beeswax, lime zest, and crushed stone appearing soon after.

Smooth, silky and bright on the palate, this wine shines with fresh fruit and floral tones. Creamed honey and beeswax provide smoothness to this citrusy, balanced, and appealingly delicate wine.

If you like… clean, fresh whites like Pinot Grigio, give this a try for something similar but with a twist.  True to varietal, finessed, and very subtle, this is a great value (4/5).

Pair this with… salads, light seafood and chicken dishes, vegetarian dishes, or stir fries.

90 points.

Wine #2: Tiefenbrunner 2009 Alto Adige Pinot Bianco

Almonds, straw,  and vanilla appear at first on the nose, with bosc pears, a subtle grassiness, and pecan brittle notes showing in the background.

Rich, smooth and full bodied, this wine wells with peach and gold apple fruit flavors, as well as zippy acidity and minerality. Nutty and vanilla toned on the edges with laser precise crispness and a silky mouthfeel, this wine nicely showcases the layered complexity that can develop with a few years of age in the bottle .

If you like… balanced white wines that are smooth and rich, but still feel fresh, like Viognier, French Pinot Gris, or Italian Soave, this is a good value (3/5).

Pair this with… roast chicken and pork dishes, creamy pastas, or seafood with drawn butter.

88 points.

With December and countless winter parties and get togethers just around the bend, it’s hard to imagine a better time to talk about Merlot. Rich, silky and crowd pleasing, Merlot is a fail proof choice for holiday entertaining, and today we’ve got two of them from some great Central Coast producers that are guaranteed to impress.

Our first wine is a 100% varietal Merlot from Sunstone, a Provence styled winery that specializes in Merlot and Syrah. This one, their Reserve, is made with fruit grown on select vineyard plots from their organically grown vineyard and from the best barrels.

Our second wine comes from an iconic producer and an awesome region for Merlot. Winemaker, Doug Margerum, takes estate grown Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Petit Verdot from the warm climate Happy Canyon appellation and creates a bold, silky Meritage that shows the great things Merlot is capable of, especially blended with other Bordeaux varietals.

Wine #1: Sunstone Reserve 2007 Santa Ynez Valley Merlot

Smoky and deep on the nose, this wine’s aroma is rich with tones of plum, dried berries, raisins, and figs, while secondary notes of truffles, coffee, and caramel contribute loads of complexity.

Silky, plush, and smooth, plums, berries, and stone introduce the palate. Hints of caramel and spice mix with cracked pepper, cinnamon stick, and dark bell pepper notes appear one after another and last into the finish. This is a bold, classically inspired wine that clearly shows a French styled restraint and firm tannins that make it all the more attractive.

If you like… Merlot or Cabernet from New World or Old World growing regions, and are looking for something that can be enjoyed now or after years of cellaring, this is a good value (3/5).

91 points.

Wine #2: Happy Canyon Vineyards 2010 Happy Canyon of Santa Barbara Estate Merlot

Aromatically rich and dark, this wine impresses from the very beginning with plum and berry jam notes, a delicate, hard to pin down, green streak, and a complex wet stone quality.

The palate shows the same complexity, with a silky core of rich dark fruit that shows an almost sweet ripenesss. Notes of plum jam, forest berries, subtle hints of fresh herbs, and a light minerally edge, reminiscent of graphite, come together gorgeously, giving this wine a truly elegant balance.

If you like… smooth, silky reds, California Merlots, right bank Bordeaux, or are looking for the perfect red for an upcoming holiday meal, this is a great value (4/5).

92 points.

The name Paso Robles has become synonymous with big, bold red wines. The warm, sunny climate allows even the slowest ripening varietals to reach full ripeness, while the diverse terrain provides a complex patchwork of micro climates, allowing growers to find suitable homes for almost any grape variety imaginable.

Today’s article is a tribute to the diversity of Paso Robles, featuring four reds from different producers throughout the region. Our first wine comes from Windward Vineyard, a “monopole” (estate winery) solely dedicated to Pinot Noir. The second is a 100% varietal bottling of the Rhone grape, Mourvedre, from the always adventurous, Villa Creek. Next, what would a post about Paso Robles reds be without a Zinfandel? This one is something truly unique from HammerSky Vineyards, showing a level of finesse and elegance that brilliantly opposes the big, jammy style so commonly found in the area. Finally, a 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the French winemaker at L’Aventure combines the concentrated richness of Paso Robles fruit with the classic refinement and structure of a Bordeaux.

Wine #1: Windward 2008 Paso Robles Monopole Gold Barrel Select Pinot Noir

Deep, dark, plump blueberry and plum tones appear at first on the nose, giving way to notes of vanilla, cinnamon, allspice, and rich dark chocolate.

The palate is just as bold and seductive as the aroma leads you to expect. Rich and spicy with plenty of dark fruit flavors, notes of blueberry, mixed spices, and vanilla cream mingle with subtle notes of burnt herbs and dusty, woodsy notes. Juicy and plump, this wine also shows a surprising amount of restraint, and remains elegant and balanced throughout.

If you like… rich Pinot Noirs that are complex and loaded with fruit, or even fuller bodied classic French Burgundies, this is a good value (3/5).

93 points.

Wine #2: Villa Creek 2009 Paso Robles Damas Noir Mourvedre

The aroma of this wine is rich and perfumed, showing complex layers of dried violets, coffee beans, cracked pepper, and toasty caramel notes all coming together around a core of dark, ripe plums.

Mixed fruit tones introduce the palate, with a pleasant, dusty spiciness appearing immediately afterward. Ripe and dried fruit flavors mix with dried floral notes and kitchen spices to create a complexity that keeps evolving. With tight, firm tannins and a plush fruitiness, this wine is beautifully balanced and has the structure to get even better with some years of cellaring.

If you like… big, spicy reds, Syrah, Petite Sirah, Grenache, or Zinfandel and are looking for something different to step of out the usual box with, this is a good value (3/5).

92 points.

Wine #3: HammerSky 2009 Paso Robles Estate Grown Zinfandel

Spicy, and loaded with red berry and cherry notes on the nose, it is clear from the very beginning that this is not a typical Paso Robles Zinfandel. Darker fruit notes of huckleberry and blueberry show through, with black pepper, stone, and bakery spices appearing on the edges.

Fresh, clean, and driven by berries and spice, this is a lush, juicy wine that is neither jammy nor top heavy. The acidity and mineral notes are in perfect balance with the plush fruit to give it plenty of depth and weight while still feeling elegant. Plum, huckleberry, cacao powder, bakery spices, and just a hint of toasted coconut show through, adding impressive complexity to the mix.

If you like… Zinfandel or very rich Pinot Noirs, this is a wine worth checking out. Or if you don’t usually like over-the-top Zinfandels and would like to try one that’s really done with some finesse, this is a good value (3/5).

92 points.

Wine #4: L’Aventure 2010 Paso Robles Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

Dark and complex on the nose, this wine wells with notes of chocolate and blackberries. Smoky tones of roasted coffee, firm mineral notes of crushed black stone, and a hint of blackcurrants also appear. In its youth this wine seems aromatically tightly wound up, but it clearly will unveil more with time in the cellar.

Dense, weighty, and bold on the palate, this wine is rich and complex with bold dark berry tones showing at the forefront, fragrant hints of potpourri,  firm notes of stone giving it structure, and dusty tannic elements reminiscent of cacao powder, vineyard dust, and leather adding depth. Concentrated, juicy, and firm with tannins this is an incredible Cabernet that shows the best of the wine maker’s French heritage and the estate’s fruit.

If you like… Cabernet and Merlot from California, bold Bordeaux vintages, or any big, intense red wines, this is one that you’ve got to check out. A good value (3/5).

94 points.