Post #2: Mosby Roc Michel

20 04 2010

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Generally speaking, the majority of my posts will feature two or more wines on a similar topic, like those of a particular producer or from the same grape variety or place. But every once in a while a wine so interesting or worthy of individual recognition will come along that I need to give it its own post.

Mosby Winery’s Roc Michel is a red Rhone blend composed of Syrah and Mourvedre. It is unvinted and comes from Monterey, California. What makes Roc Michel unique, is that it is somewhat of an unusual orphan in the Mosby line up. Mosby is a winery located in Buellton, California that specializes in Italian varietals. I am extremely impressed by their line up (obscure grapes like Cortese and Lagrein) and writing a post featuring a number of their offerings has high priority on my “to do” list.

Not only does owner and winemaker, Bill Mosby, focus on making unique wines with Italian heritage, he is committed to making wines that, true to the Italian spirit, are also particularly food friendly. In fact, the Mosby crest depicts an eagle holding a wine glass in one talon and a knife and fork in the other. Nearly every wine listed on their website features a recommended food pairing in their descriptions, and there is even a recipes section to help you find just the right dish to pair with your wine. It’s this obvious commitment to creating a complete Italian experience that makes me think that Mosby Winery has something really special that sets them apart from all the other wineries in California churning out Italian wines. Bill Mosby and his wife, Jeri, aren’t doing it because it’s the newest trend, they live it.

This is exactly what makes their son, Michael’s wine so unusual. Roc Michel is like nothing else in their line, composed of Rhone grapes and grown in Monterey, it shows an entirely new facet to what Mosby Winery is capable of. The wine comes exclusively from Fremir Vineyard, near the town of Parkfield in Monterey County. This little vineyard has everything going for it. First off, it’s small, at around five acres, which means that the wine made from these grapes has no choice but to represent the terroir of its origin. Secondly, it has a Southern exposure, revered by grape growers in the northern hemisphere because a southern facing slope will get sunshine throughout nearly the entire day, allowing for ideal ripening conditions. And third, the soil is rocky and the days are hot, just like in much of the Rhone valley where the grapes originate, giving them an authentic, old world growing environment. Needless to say, I was excited to try this wine.

Mosby’s Roc Michel is a pure, medium red color with just the faintest cast of orange on the edges. It maintains a lightness in the glass with a nice medium viscosity. The aroma is very impressive and shows three distinct levels of complexity. The first thing I notice is the Mourvedre character, with a delicate floral, almost anise seed aroma, tied in with a deeper chocolaty, coffee and hazelnut tone. Then I pick up on more of the Syrah, with sort of smoky, black stone, and charred berry bush aromas. A good spin in the glass reveals another aspect that really shows the two grapes coming together to create raspberry truffles, soy sauce, and a faint grilled steak aroma. I was really impressed by the aroma on this wine, it was just so expressive and interesting that I probably sat there sniffing it for five to ten minutes before I ever even took my first sip.

When I did finally get around to tasting the wine, there were flavors of sweet ripe raspberries, coffee, cashews, and a very soft floral edge. The mid palate offered ripe plum and cherry, a little bit of tamarind and some port-like aromas. The finish was long and developed slowly from raspberry crème to cigar wrapper to very subtle cashew brittle. The acidity was ripe and showed just enough to give the fruit a sense of depth. This wine also shows a very nice balance of fruit and supple tannins. There is just a touch of alcohol that shows up throughout that gives it a little extra heat, but overall Roc Michel is smooth, lush, and almost creamy with engaging complexity and great intensity.

91 Points. Absolutely Worth Trying and Buying Again.

Please leave a comment:

The Grapevine: I didn’t know what to expect from Roc Michel. What has been your best surprise wine discovery?








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