Spring is finally starting to feel like it is here. The days are longer and it’s getting warmer, which means it’s time to break out something light, crisp, and refreshing, something like Ironstone Vineyard’s Obsession Symphony.
Ironstone is a winery located in the Sierra Foothills (although this wine simply states California on the label.) The AVA runs sheltered along the Sierra Nevada mountain range located just east of Sacramento and Lodi (where the company also has a large number of grapes planted.) Ironstone is a husband and wife owned winery that has been growing great California grapes for years. A quote on their website sums Ironstone up as ”a wine brand dedicated to the production of exceptional wines of unparalleled quality, outstanding value and everyday approachability.” 
From my experience with their wines, every word of that is true, and because those happen to be the very same things that I have devoted this site to, I knew that I would have to write a post about them.
Although this wine claims a generic California appellation, the grapes come from the Sierra Foothills and Lodi. The Sierra Foothills, which have hosted grapes nearly as long as California has been a state, is one of California’s largest AVAs. As such, it has a variety of growing environments, with grapes planted anywhere from 1,000 something to 3,000 feet in elevation. The mountains provide a moderate climate that makes the best of the cool conditions to the east and the heat and the sun to the west. Lodi, famous for being the “Zinfandel capital of the world,” is a lush, warm climate environment, too far east to be effected by the coast, with rich, fertile, valley soils. Conditions like this allow for full ripening in plenty of sunshine, and lots of potential for any number of grape varieties to flourish.
And what better grape to investigate than the mysterious Symphony. A hybrid variety developed at UC Davis in 1948, Symphony is a cross between Grenache Gris and Muscat of Alexandria. Now if these varieties don’t jump up and grab your attention, don’t be surprised. Grenache Gris is a very uncommonly heard of grape, taking a back seat to the much more popular, and some would argue better performing, Grenache Blanc, and Muscat of Alexandria has historically been labeled as one of the more inferior Muscat varieties, and in fact is often better suited to the production of raisins. So obviously I’m not going to be able to sell you on this grape based on its parentage, but handled properly this grape manages to produce enjoyable, subtle wines for casual drinking.
In the glass this wine is steely and hay colored with just a touch of green. The nose offers three distinct layers of complexity. First off, there is a rich petrol base tone that is reminiscent of slightly aged Riesling. This is accompanied by a core of very lush peach and tropical fruit tones. And finally to brighten things up, there are intense highlights of white flowers and honeysuckle. This wine’s aroma is half of its appeal. I think a lot of the time when you get a wine around this price range, made in this style, the aromatic complexity gets lost somewhere. Just because a wine is meant to be casual and refreshing does not mean that it has to be boring. Ironstone’s Symphony continues to impress on the palate as well. At first sip I get a soft sweetness that seems to naturally bloom from the intense gardenia tones that appear initially, a bit of light honey and canned mandarin orange in syrup appear, leading to an interesting core of petrol and sea stone. The finish is a blend of all of these elements, quietly drifting into the distance. Overall, I think the thing that impresses me about this wine is its balance. The acidity opens up nicely in the beginning and stays fresh throughout, there is a slight sweetness but it never feels out of place or cloying, and although this is a light wine, there is a certain fullness in its texture and blooming intensity. It reminds me more of a well made riesling than something I would expect to find at this price point and market segment, and I think it is difficult to find class like this at this price.
88 Points and Absolutely Worth Drinking.
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The Grapevine: This is a great “kickback and relax” kind of wine. What’s your favorite casual sipper?
