Many wineries have a separate selection of offerings that make up what they call a “library collection.” These are usually wines that are no longer produced by the winery, or are remnants of an older vintage, kept for aging purposes. I think of today’s article as somewhat of a library collection post. The two wines that I want to discuss today are both no longer currently released, with one coming from an older vintage than is available now, and the other not being produced at all. Even still, this site is all about discovery and breaking into unchartered territory, and the comparison and individuality that these wines offer makes them worth discussing even after they have vanished from the marketplace. There is a chance that these wines can still be found somewhere, but even if they can’t be, I hope that this post will inspire my readers to search out wines like them and give them a try.
Today we’re discussing the exciting Italian white wine varietal, Arneis. This “little trouble maker,” as the name translates, is native to Piemonte. Not an easy grape to grow, as is evident by the name, Arneis is prone to disease, can easily over-ripen, and has a tendency to become “flabby” and flat if not carefully monitored during growing and winemaking. So for all the trouble, there must be something about this grape to make the struggle all worth it. With certain characteristics unlike any other grape, Arneis makes some very interesting, if not difficult to find, wines in its home region of Piemonte. However, as the wines we’re about to discuss today show, the New World has gotten in on the action as well.
Wine #1: Cougar 2008 Guadalupe Valley Arneis
Our first wine truly is a library selection in that it will never be released again. Produced by the Temecula Valley’s Cougar Winery, known for bringing us an Aglianico and a Pinotage that have been featured in previous posts, the grapes used to make this wine were sourced from the Guadalupe Valley in Mexico’s Baja California. In my mind, that alone makes it something to talk about, but this wine really has something that makes it worth investigating. Unfortunately this wine is no longer in production, but there is a chance that a similar wine may be made in the future. The winery’s estate plantings now include Arneis, which could mean a new release in a future vintage, only using grapes from another source.
Faintly stony and somewhat soapy, this wine’s aroma opens up with golden apple and white peach skin. There is a very faint macadamia nut quality, some anise, and an oily, almost diesel-like tone coming through following a spin in the glass.
This wine is surprisingly sweet, almost on par with a typical Spatlese Riesling. Tones of limestone and apple jelly introduce the palate, with soft notes of butter, pumice, and flint moving into the mid palate. Faint notes of gooseberry, rain-kissed leaves, and delicate floral tones combine with a very subtle smokiness on the finish. This is a nicely balanced wine, with firm minerality and acidity giving structure to a ripe, lush sweetness. Delicate and fresh, but with a good amount of substance, this is a versatile wine that would be just as good with a variety of dishes as it would be enjoyed simply on its own.
Worth Trying. 87 points.
Wine #2: Palmina 2006 Santa Ynez Valley Arneis
Palmina is a cool winery. I just had to start off by saying that. This is the kind of place that I love to find when I go wine tasting. Located in the Lompoc “wine ghetto,” this place is hidden away in an industrial building complex that made its exterior look more like a used computer warehouse than a winery. But the moment I stepped in the door, I realized I had found something good here.
Completely devoted to Italian wines, Palmina produces everything from Malvasia to Dolcetto, and does every one of their wines in style. The only thing I love to see more than a winery with an extensive list of obscure wines is a winery that executes each one of them professionally and artistically, Palmina manages to do that. I have a feeling that I’ll be posting more on my findings there in the future, and I can hardly wait to feature their Nebbiolos, but for today, let’s shift our focus back to the Arneis.
Spiced apple and white peach make an immediate appearance on the nose, with anise seeds, sea stone minerals, and a touch of blue slate. There are hints of white floral nectar, butter, and baked apple skin lingering on the edges.
Delicate and white flower and peach toned initially, the palate quickly gives way to a soft creaminess at the core with notes of spiced butter and red apple skin. Hints of cinnamon, pumice, and fruit cocktail syrup mingle with a firm minerality on the mid palate and into the finish. This wine has a good balance between a creamy quality and crisp mineral and fresh fruit tones, with only the very faintest hint of sweetness just on the edges. A pretty impressive effort and…
Worth Trying. 87 points.
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The Grapevine: Ever had an Arneis? What were your thoughts?
