Today’s post features a controversial topic. The spirits we will be discussing are notorious for dividing drinkers into two passionately determined camps, those who love them and those who refuse to touch them. Grappa and aqua vitae are both grape derived spirits with a unique, concentrated flavor profile that has been known to generate some mixed opinions.
Grappa is essentially a brandy distilled from the seeds, skins, and stems of grapes, collectively called pumice, left over from wine production. It is most commonly clear, although some are aged in oak, giving them an amber hue and a different flavor profile depending on the length of the oak contact. Grappas may also be aromatized with various botanicals (herbs, roots, and spices) or flavored with things like lemon or chocolate. The two that we will be tasting today are both free of oak or flavorings, and represent grappa in its purest form.
We will also be talking about an aqua vitae, another spirit that is slightly more difficult to define. Simply meaning “water of life”, the term aqua vitae only indicates a distillate derived from a fermented liquid. As such, most distilled alcoholic beverages could fall under this umbrella term. The one that we are covering today, like many, is distilled from wine and was bottled free of oak aging.
Spirit #1: Castello Banfi Aqua Vitae
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Sourced from a collection of estate vineyards in Montalcino, Castello Banfi’s Aqua Vitae is distilled entirely from Moscato grapes.
Floral and perfumed with tones of beeswax and honey, Banfi’s Aqua Vitae clearly shows that it is based on Muscat. Dried apricot and golden raisin make a very obvious appearance, with just a hint of coffee beans, dried orange peel and kitchen spices in the background.
Smooth and perfumed, lots of dried fruit and white flowers tones show clearly initially. Rich tones of honey and spice combine with beeswax and jasmine tea. It’s well integrated, nicely complex, and balanced with a full bodied viscosity. Nicely done.
Worth Trying. 91points.
Spirit #2: Lorenzo Inga Grappa di Barolo
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Our first grappa is 100% Nebbiolo based, and is sourced from the grape’s iconic homeland, Barolo.
Highly perfumed with dense notes of preserved citrus and golden raisin, this grappa has fascinatingly complex aromatics. Lavender and wildflower pollen show as well, with sweet dried fruit tones and a faintly peppery quality also making an appearance.
Very smooth, and almost deceptively sweet tasting, the palate is rich and viscous. Beeswax and honey combine with lavender, dried citrus peel and raspberry butter. It’s dense, flavorful, and complex with well integrated alcohol with a lasting perfumed finish.
Worth Buying. 93 points.
Spirit #3: PO’ di Poli Grappa Aromatica
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Coming from the Veneto region, our final grappa is derived from 100% varietal Gewurztraminer.
Vanilla and cacao pod show initially on the nose. A fascinating marzipan-like quality also appears, with subtle tones of kitchen spices and white peppercorn in the background.
The palate is exactly as the aroma leads you to expect. Driven by notes of prune, raisin, caramel, and chocolate, this is an intriguingly complex grappa. Almost sweet tasting and dense, it’s got lots of impact and a very smooth mouthfeel.
Worth Trying. 93 points.
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The Grapevine: What’s your experience with grappa and aqua vitae?
