Last week we talked about a wine made with the American varietal Lenoir, also called Black Spanish. In that article I also mentioned another similar American varietal, most commonly found in Missouri, called Norton. That reminded me of a Norton wine that I had tried a few months back that I had yet to talk about, and I thought that it would be fun to cover it today.
Norton, like the Black Spanish I covered on Friday, is a native American grape that packs tons of flavor and richness into a wine that tastes uniquely different from wines made using European grape varietals. It has an intense grapey backbone, on top of which loads of complexity are able to build when handled by an experienced winemaker. Norton was actually once one of Americas most successful wine varietals, with strongholds along the east coast, but following prohibition, the varietal was not widely replanted, leaving it fairly unknown today. Fortunately, a number of producers, mostly in Missouri, are reviving the Norton grape by making some truly fascinating wines with it. The one we’re talking about today is a great example of that, and also shows the cellarability of these wines, coming from the 2004 vintage. Best part of all, you can pick up the current vintage of this reserve Norton from St. James Winery online for only $19.99.
A gorgeous combination of leather, kitchen spices, vanilla cream, and dried plum show initially on the nose. Toasted coconut macaroons, sage, blackberry, honey, and licorice all make an appearance, creating a beautifully complex aroma.
Prune and poached black plum introduce the palate, quickly giving way to vanilla, creamed honey, sage, and leather. Toasty coconut tones and tart black cherry notes show around the edges and into the finish. This is a plush, deliciously complex, and wonderfully unique wine.
Worth Buying. 92 points.
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The Grapevine: Ever tried an American wine or an American hybrid? What were your thoughts?
Many Virginia wineries doing a very good job with Norton as well.
Good call Steve. My understanding is that there are some plantings in Texas too. Glad to see more winemakers experimenting with it.
There are 257 Norton wineries today in 24 states. Finding that exceptional Norton wine is like kissing a lot of toads to find that prince(ss). After tasting now 113 different Norton wines from seventeen states, we have found a few exciting Nortons and a handful of other really good wine examples which vary annually due to vintage variation. Many people want instant wine gratification upon purchase, but here is where that does not work since most Norton wines need to be put away for several years, ~ something most people are not willing or able to do. To date, we’ve found only a few “drink now” Norton wines; as, Westphalia and Peaceful Bend in Missouri, Texas’ Stone House ‘Claros’ and Castle Gruen in Virginia. And wineries that hold back their wines four or five years also consequently charge you more for these wines (Stone Hill Cross J Norton as example). But not to discourage you in Norton wine purchases, you will enjoy even younger Norton wines if you let your bottles rest for a few weeks after a winery purchase (travel bottle shock) and make sure to let your Norton wine breathe for no less than 40 minutes before serving. Your first sip will smack you of malic acids (+ tannins), but quickly settle down with the second sip, etc. Depending on your travel location, do try the best Norton wines within the following states: White Oaks (AL); Mount Bethel (AR), Three Sister (GA); Century Farms (TN); Elk Creek or Lover’s Leap (KY); Stone House Vineyards (TX), Castle Gruen, Cooper, DuCard, Chrysalis (VA); Stone Mountain Cellars (PA), Heinrichshaus, Stone Hill’s Cross J, Montelle, Robller, Peaceful Bend and Westphalia (MO). Please do not compare Norton wine to California and European vinifera, since it’s truly an American wine which reflects our American culture. Doug Frost, a Kansas City wine writer and master sommelier expressed Norton wines best as “powerful, muscular, crazy intense in malic acid and capable of staining teeth or even wineglasses. [The wine is] probably something most drinkers have to learn to love, with its rough and rustic personality often evident.” *Another concern for many is the cost of Norton wines. Realize that grape production can be less than one third per acre with Norton grapes as compared to other grape yields because of its small size and extremely seedy fruit. There are other factors involved also, but generally expect to pay $18-$25 per bottle. Most less expensive Norton wines reflect anticipated quality, but here we also have some fine exceptions; as, Horton ($12-$15 VA), St. James ($8-20 MO), Illinois Cellars ($7 IL), Elk Creek Vineyards ($13 KY), Century Farms ($12 TN) and White Oaks ($13 AL). Try to find Norton vineyards with older vines which combine well with more experienced Norton vintners. But here again, we have been pleasantly surprised with new Norton upstarts who make amazing blends to camouflage their young green Nortons. Do yourself a favor by enjoying Todd Kliman’s novel-like-Norton biography, The Wild Vine, with a Norton wine in hand.
For a break down of Norton wineries per state: There are 257 Norton wineries today in 24 states: Alabama – 4, Arkansas – 6, Florida – 1, Georgia – 8, Illinois – 27, Indiana – 3, Iowa – 12, Kansas – 9, Kentucky – 14, Louisiana – 2, Maryland – 1, Michigan – 1, Missouri – 86, Nebraska – 4, New Jersey – 3, New York – 1, North Carolina – 5, Ohio – 3, Oklahoma – 6, Pennsylvania – 4, Tennessee – 11, Texas – 9, Virginia – 36, West Virginia – 1.
Wow. Thanks so much for all the info. I’m in California, so my access to Norton wines is pretty minimal, I really appreciate all the additional recommendations. Cheers.